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Discussion Starter #1
Okay first off what’s everyone run? In the performance engines? 434 bbk, 400ex carb, 13.5-1 comp, CP piston, +4 stroker, 47/48 hotcam cams, full HMF pipe...

Heard motul 10/40 full synthetic is the best, but I hate paying 20 a quart just for oil really, plus 10$ a gallon of racing fuel... would Lucas semi synthetic be enough? (Around 7-10$)

REAL QUESTION: How much oil do these quads take? (Z400) I’ve read the manual and I know 2.3 for rebuild, 2.2 or so filter change and so on.... but anyone know exactly?

I change my filter and oil really regularly, as I’m still somewhat in the break in stage (as I consider it,... I’ve not even ran a full tank of gas yet) but when I change mine and put 2qt and some odd in, then run it ab 5 min, let it cool, then recheck there is none on the dipstick....
I’ll add till it reads (prob a quart) check it again, (warm up, and cool off) then it’s at the top of the reservoir, pretty much ready to overflow....

I was riding the other day and it just shut off on me... checked the oil, wasn’t registering, I then added around a1/2 qt give or take, and then it shut off on me again (ab a half mile from the house, shut off, and on the way back .5 mile)

Anyone know what this could be? Or explain something simple to me? I’d hate to blow this new build up, running too much or too little oil in it... that’d really piss me off after all this hard work I’ve put into it
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, mine is an 03.....

I’ve seen where someone, I’d say jumped the piss out of it, and broke the left upper a arm... is this common? They’ve welded it back and put a rod inside of it (isn’t welded to the rod, then to both pieces, just the arm to rest of the arm and to the eyes that bolt onto the frame)... it has a slight hole in it where they didn’t completely fill the crack or finish the weld... I’m not a “welder” I’ve went to school for it but ain’t my “career choice” but even I could do a way better job than they did...

Is this pretty common? I know these first frames just suck, unless some fabricating... but the a arms?
 

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Age-old debate, but I ran cheap pro-Honda during break-in since I was changing it every 10 hours. After that, Repsol 4T. Still change it every 20 hours or so.

I check oil ad soon as I shut it off, so it doesn’t have a chance to run out of the tank.

I doubt oil level is causing it to randomly die. Carb problem most likely, but no way to troubleshoot from here.

Sounds like a ghetto A-arm repair. I would replace it.
 

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The thing you will notice with all oil threads, and I mean all of them, is a trend where most responses will insist that what they use is the absolute best, and they will have no data to back up their claim, except "I've always had good luck with it."

The truth is, any reputable motorcycle oil will work fine. It is important that it be for a wet clutch. Synthetic oils do offer a little more protection in certain situations. I've never seen evidence of them causing clutch slippage like some people claim. I do believe in the idea that you should not break an engine in on synthetic oil.

Thicker oils do have a little more film strength, and can be beneficial in high load or high temperature situations. I like to see synthetic 20-50 in air cooled engines racing XC for example.


In my own stuff, I've tried a lot of things. I was once an avid believer in Amsoil, until I got tired of paying for it, and looked into how their company works. I have used Lucas oils. I thought it seemed to not shift as well with it. Now for the sake of price, I use Rotella. I have not seen a noticeable difference in wear, regardless of what was in it. I break in on Rotella 15-40 (with lots of assembly lube in it, which adds to the zinc content) and I race on Rotella 5-40 synthetic. I've made as much as 70hp from a Z with that oil, and I have not seen any lubrication issues. I use it in my truck as well. I'm looking at trying Quicksilver since I'm a Mercury marine dealer, and I get a better deal on it.



As for the oil capacity, 2.3 as per the manual is correct. What differs is the method of checking the oil. The manual does not say this, but if you want an accurate read on the oil level, the engine must be hot. Full running temp, after riding for at least 10 minutes.

The reason for this is because it's a dry sump, and cold oil doesn't return to the sump as fast as hot oil. Therefore, the tank will read low, until the engine, and oil, are up to full operating temp.

Therefore, if you put 2.3 in it, ride it a while, then check it, at that point you can see if it needs a little more or not.


If you check your oil cold, it should be near the bottom of the hash range cold. If you fill to the top of the hash range when it's cold, it will overflow when it's hot, and it may put oil in the air box.
 
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