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Discussion Starter #1
so i pulled my tensioner outon my DVX 400 and saw that is dameged at the end of it
so i have order that

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Cat-DVX-400-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-Fix-Eliminates-Chatter-Alba-Racing/172719676059?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

in the meantime i have puted manual tensioner

so now i dont understand hoe stock tensioner works , just replacing the top , and putting it back on the motor and just snug the spring all the way tillthe nut over the spring as it the end ?
isnt that put too much tension on the chain?
is the stock one is auto tensioner somehow?
 

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Yes, stock is a spring-loaded automatic tensioner. You have to put it on its shortest setting, install the main body, then install the tensioner spring. If it is fully-extended when installed, it won’t seat all the way unless your timing chain or chain guide is junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so to test it-
i extend it all the way and try to put it in place if it have tension on it its good?
then im taking the spring out , instaling the 2screws on the side,then instal spring and the main screw all the way in?
 

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I would take a look at your cam chain guides. There should not have been any scaring on the end of the tensioner unless the guide is worn and the cam chain is rubbing on it. You did state the end was damaged correct?
 

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so to test it-
i extend it all the way and try to put it in place if it have tension on it its good?
then im taking the spring out , instaling the 2screws on the side,then instal spring and the main screw all the way in?
The exact opposite. Shorten it as much as possible (retract it), then install the tensioner without the spring. Once installed, put the spring and center bolt in and ride the bike for a few minutes.
Remove spring first, then tensioner, and see how many clicks you have left before full extension.

I agree, it shouldn’t have wear like that unless the guide is worn through or installed wrong. Maybe the tensioner was forcefully installed while fully extended, which would kill the guide and probably the timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would take a look at your cam chain guides. There should not have been any scaring on the end of the tensioner unless the guide is worn and the cam chain is rubbing on it. You did state the end was damaged correct?
yea it was dammaged
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The exact opposite. Shorten it as much as possible (retract it), then install the tensioner without the spring. Once installed, put the spring and center bolt in and ride the bike for a few minutes.
Remove spring first, then tensioner, and see how many clicks you have left before full extension.

I agree, it shouldn’t have wear like that unless the guide is worn through or installed wrong. Maybe the tensioner was forcefully installed while fully extended, which would kill the guide and probably the timing chain.
so if the guide is dammaged
its time for new guide ?
hard thing to replace?
 

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Yes, new guide and you have to remove the head for one of the guides, can’t remember which one. If it’s the rear guide, new head gasket. If it isn’t that one, then you’ll need a side cover gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, new guide and you have to remove the head for one of the guides, can’t remember which one. If it’s the rear guide, new head gasket. If it isn’t that one, then you’ll need a side cover gasket.
any reason not to leave it with the manual tensioner atm?
it can solve the current problem , isnt it?
 

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Yes, but I would be highly suspect of that guide at this point. With the manual tensioner, you’ll have to stay on top of the adjustments or it could be catastrophic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, but I would be highly suspect of that guide at this point. With the manual tensioner, you’ll have to stay on top of the adjustments or it could be catastrophic.
naa
i feel the tension on the manual at around half of it...
and no noise with manual atm.....
BTW i never had issues with ths stock tensnioer, just puled it becouse of the valve adjusment ...
 

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I would be cautious if it were me. If the cam chain is riding on the tensioner and not the chain guide there's going to be metal shavings compiling up inside the case. I would at least try and look down from the top to see if the end of the tensioner is exposed. And if your not the original owner that damaged tensioner may just be something that has already been fixed and they just resurfaced that end.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would be cautious if it were me. If the cam chain is riding on the tensioner and not the chain guide there's going to be metal shavings compiling up inside the case. I would at least try and look down from the top to see if the end of the tensioner is exposed. And if your not the original owner that damaged tensioner may just be something that has already been fixed and they just resurfaced that end.
im not the first owner
and i dont think there is some metal on metal cottact(no noise)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, but I would be highly suspect of that guide at this point. With the manual tensioner, you’ll have to stay on top of the adjustments or it could be catastrophic.
so im doin a head rebuild now , and saw that tensenior have 1 click until it fully open( stoc tensenior),
is it worth to open the botoom to replace the chain guide( has wear on it)?
or 1 click is fine?
if so , do i need to open right side and go behind the clutch?
 

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Yes, it’s time to replace the chain and guide. You’ll have to pull the clutch basket to get to the bolt that holds the guide in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
alright.
u know also if there is a guide to replace cam chain/?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
also do u have recomendation where to buy the chain?
i guess not from ebay-china.
and how much it supposed to cost?
ty very much man
 

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I use D.I.D. chains, Rocky Mountain ATV should have them.
 
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