Suzuki Central Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i bought it from the dealer, broke it in with 4 tanks, then put the hammer down on the lake. Its been 25-30 degrees, and im at 500 feet. I have a white bros pipe and pro design adapter and filter. And a 150 main jet. Well the clutch started to slip and dident want to w00ter into or out of the gears and wouldent barely move. Towed it home, brought to dealer and they fixed it, said it was the linkage, but i dident mess with it, that was 1 week ago, now yesterday i was riding it and it did the exact same thing, but i looked at it for awhile, and the oil tank was way to hot and i burnt my hand. So i un screwed the dipstick and oil shot out at a steady stream, so i thought well theres a problem. This was when the motor was ice cold. Well i drained it to where it was susposed to be and messed with the linkage where it goes in to the motor. Well some how there must of been a spring that popped off cause it dont retract now. Whats wrong, they said it couldent be the oil, and its fine, the oil was alos black when it came out, not the brown color. Whats going on with it. Im about fed up. Pleaze help. Thanks in advance..............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Who changed the oil last? If it was you, how much did you use and what kind (brand and weight).

150 may be a little lean if you've go an open airbox. Did you also adjust the needle to make it richer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No just the main, what should it be about at 25 degrees and in the summer what should i have it at, its airbox cover is FULL of holes and i dont have the wb head pipe. Thankz, oh and i dident change the oil, the dealer did. They said they did. I brought it in today andf they said they would tear it all apart and replace what was needed for free cause of the warranty. They accused me of slipping the clutch, i dont think so, ive been on the ice the whole time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
A big mistake a lot of folks make is when they pipe and let more air in, they only up the main jet. While these types of mods do affect top end mostly, they also do affect low and mid (low not as much, but still some).

I haven't cracked the Z carb apart yet so see if it has a movable clip, and I keep hearing of people raising it with washers. I hope there are notches. :) Years of tuning two strokes (and a few 4 strokes) have got me comfortable with a carb. Although working on the Z carb and doing plug chops is a million times harder than on the other rides I've had (R for example). But, on the good side, thumpers are usually more lenient to jetting being a little of. 2 strokes.. well, they're picky.

You will want to richen up the mid, so raise the needle just from your mods alone. And then turn the air/fuel screw out 1/2-1 turns and see how it handles. It should be smoother transitions once jettingn is spot on. And you won't risk running lean.

Most riding is done in the mid throttle range, which is the needle. So that is important as well as the main. Maybe more important depending on riding style. Remember, we're talking throttle posistion here, not speed for jetting. And, don't forget cooler temps also make for a leaner conditon.

I think if you bump the main to 155 and raise the needle a notch (or a couple "washers"...) then turn the air/fuel screw out 1/2 you'll be in better shape.

But, I would guess that if your temp light isn't coming on, you're not that far off. But, I bet they put too much oil in the sucker. Or maybe some synth which made the clutch slip (JUST KIDDING!!!) It wouldn't hurt to find out what kind of oil they used. Most likly suzuki oil, which should be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well i bought a dyno jet kit for the z, it said to change the needle with theirs on a differnt groove, 3.5 turns out on mixture screw and 150 main jet, for use with high flow baffle and aftermarket exhaust, BAFFLE?? With out air box lid, i have 80% of the airbox cov er drilled with holes. It white bros slip on and pro design air filter. Should i follow their instructions??


The white bros said 130 main WITH thier powerfilter and airbox cover ON or cover OFF and 165 main. Ther wasent much of a differnce in power when i did the 165 and prodesign filter with out lid. I think stock hadm more power than it has now or did with 165 jet. On the paved road it wont top out and come close to rev limiter. its like 3/4 throttle speed at wide open, just wont rev up, but then again i dident try it when it was stock, just a little confused of this stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
I finally decided to look into the needle. no notches. That blows. Oh well, shimming with washers will have to do.

165 sounds way rich even with the lid off. Probably couldn't top out because you were getting too much fuel.

No idea what the baffle is from dynojet. And, their numbers sometimes are different than mikuni... so that could be a whole different ballgame.

I'm gonna go snorkle baffle removed, vent holes (6?) in the airbox (if I can get the vents in town) and drill out peashoter and little silencer pipe. I plan on going 150 main unless no vents in the lid, then 140. For needle, if vents, 2 washers, if not 1. 3 turns out on air/fuel screw.

Yep, jetting is a bear... but once it's right, you can feel the difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got it back from the shop, they said crank case hose was plugged so the oil tank was pressured and caused oil to get really hot then he said the clutch slipped, when oils hot its thin, rite, wouldent that make is grab harder???????Get the dyno jet kit, i did what they said to do and just took it for a ride and there is a big differnce from stocks throttle response and mid range a LOTDyno jets are differnt that the stock suzuki kind, but they have a differnt needle and grooves with a e clip, and 15 jets from lean 108 to rich 155. Washer and differnt springs. Where does the needle go at??
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top